
Baghdad, Iraq
Dec 5, 2007 - 1:36:17 PM
Baghdad (Arabic) is
the capital of Iraq and of Baghdad Governorate. With a metropolitan
area estimated at a population of 7,000,000, it is the largest city in
Iraq.It is the second-largest city in the Arab world (after Cairo) and
the second-largest city in southwest Asia (after
Tehran).
Located on the Tigris River, the city dates
back to at least the 8th century, and probably to pre-Islamic times.
Once the center of Dar al-salam, the Muslim world, Baghdad has been a
center of violent conflict since 2003 because of the ongoing Iraq
War.
Name
Although there is
dispute over its Iranian origin, there have been several rival
proposals as to its specific etymology. The most reliable and most
widely accepted among these is that the name is a Middle Persian
compound of Bhaga "god" + dād "given", translating to "god-given" or
"God's gift", whence Modern Persian Baɣdād, Arabic Baġdād. Another
leading proposal is that the name comes from Middle Persian Bāgh-dād
"The Given Garden".
History
Foundation
The city of
Baghdad is often said to have been founded on the west bank of the
Tigris on 30 July 762 by the Abbasid dynasty, led by caliph al-Mansur,
replacing Harran as the seat of the caliphal government; however, a
city of Baghdad is mentioned in pre-Islamic texts, including the Talmud
and the Abbasid city was likely built on the site of this earlier
settlement.
Baghdad eclipsed Ctesiphon, the capital
of the Persian Empire, which was located some 30 km (20 miles) to the
southeast, which had been under Muslim control since 637, and which
became quickly deserted after the foundation of Baghdad. The site of
Babylon, which had been deserted since the 2nd century BC, lies some 90
km (55 miles) to the south.
The city was designed as
a circle about 2 km in diameter, leading it to be known as the "Round
City". The original design shows a ring of residential and commercial
structures along the inside of the city walls, but the final
construction added another ring, inside the first. In the center of the
city lay the mosque, as well as headquarters for guards. The purpose or
use of the remaining space in the center is unknown. The circular
design of the city was a direct reflection of the traditional Persian
Sasanian urban design. The ancient Sasanian city of Gur/Firouzabad is
nearly identical in its general circular design, radiating avenues, and
the government buildings and temples at the center of the
city.
The roundness points to the fact that it was
based on Persian precedents such as Firouzabad in Persia. The two
designers who were hired by al-Mansur to plan the city's design were
Naubakht, a former Persian Zoroastrian who also determined that the
date of the foundation of the city would be astrologically auspicious,
and Mashallah, a Jew from Khorasan, Iran.
A center of learning (8th to 9th
c.)
Further information: Islamic
Golden Age
Within a generation of its
founding, Baghdad became a hub of learning and commerce. The House of
Wisdom was an establishment dedicated to the translation of Greek,
Middle Persian and Syriac works. The Barmakids were influential in
bringing scholars from the nearby Academy of Gundishapur, facilitating
the introduction of Greek and Indian science into the Arabic world.
Baghdad was likely the largest city in the world from shortly after its
foundation until the 930s, when it was tied by Córdoba. Several
estimates suggest that the city contained over a million inhabitants at
its peak. A portion of the population of Baghdad originated in Iran,
especially from Khorasan. Many of Scheherazade's tales in One Thousand
and One Nights are set in Baghdad during this
period.
Stagnation and wars (10th to 16th
c.)
By the 10th century, the city's
population was between 300,000 and 500,000. Baghdad's early meteoric
growth slowed due to troubles within the Caliphate, including
relocations of the capital to Samarra (during 808-819 and 836-892), the
loss of the western and easternmost provinces, and periods of political
domination by the Iranian Buwayhids (945-1055) and Seljuk Turks
(1055-1135). Nevertheless, the city remained one of the cultural and
commercial hubs of the Islamic world until February 10, 1258, when it
was sacked by the Mongols under Hulagu Khan during the sack of Baghdad.
The Mongols massacred most of the city's inhabitants, including the
Abbasid Caliph Al-Musta'sim, and destroyed large sections of the city.
The canals and dykes forming the city's irrigation system were also
destroyed. The sack of Baghdad put an end to the Abbasid Caliphate, a
blow from which the Islamic civilization never fully
recovered.
At this point Baghdad was ruled by the
Il-Khanids, the Mongol emperors of Iran. In 1401, Baghdad was again
sacked, by Timur ("Tamerlane"). It became a provincial capital
controlled by the Jalayirid (1400-1411), Qara Quyunlu (1411-1469), Aq
Quyunlu (1469-1508), and Safavid (1508-1534)
dynasties.
Ottoman Baghdad (16th to 19th
c.)
In 1534, Baghdad was conquered by
the Ottoman Turks. Under the Ottomans, Baghdad fell into a period of
decline, partially as a result of the enmity between its rulers and
Persia. For a time, Baghdad had been the largest city in the Middle
East before being overtaken by Constantinople in the 16th century. The
Nuttall Encyclopedia reports the 1907 population of Baghdad as
185,000.
20th
century
Baghdad remained under Ottoman
rule until the establishment of the kingdom of Iraq under British
control in 1921. British control was established by a systematic
suppression of Iraqi Arab and Kurdish national aspirations. Iraq was
given formal independence in 1932, and increased autonomy in 1946. In
1958 the Iraqi Army deposed the grandson of the British-installed
monarch, Faisal II. The city's population grew from an estimated
145,000 in 1900 to 580,000 in 1950 of which 140,000 were
Jewish.
During the 1970s Baghdad experienced a
period of prosperity and growth because of a sharp increase in the
price of petroleum, Iraq's main export. New infrastructure including
modern sewage, water, and highway facilities were built during this
period. However, the Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s was a difficult time
for the city, as money flowed into the army and thousands of residents
were killed. Iran launched a number of missile attacks against Baghdad,
although they caused relatively little damage and few casualties. In
1991 the Persian Gulf War caused damage to Baghdad's transportation,
power, and sanitary infrastructure.
2003 War in
Iraq
Baghdad was bombed very heavily in
March and April 2003 in the 2003 invasion of Iraq, and fell under US
control by April 7-April 9. Additional damage was caused by the severe
looting during the days following the end of the war. With the
deposition of Saddam Hussein's regime, the city was occupied by U.S.
troops. The Coalition Provisional Authority established a
three-square-mile (8 km²) "Green Zone" within the heart of the city
from which it governed Iraq during the period before the new Iraqi
government was established. The Coalition Provisional Authority ceded
power to the interim government at the end of June 2004 and dissolved
itself.
On September 23, 2003, a Gallup poll
indicated that about two-thirds of Baghdad residents said that the
removal of the Iraqi leader was worth the hardships they encountered,
and that they expected a better life in five years' time. As time
passed, however, support for the occupation declined dramatically. In
April 2004, USA Today reported that a follow-up Gallup poll in Baghdad
indicated that "only 13 percent of the people now say the invasion of
Iraq was morally justifiable. In the 2003 poll, more than twice that
number saw it as the right thing to do."
Most
residents of Baghdad became impatient with the occupation because
essential services such as electricity were still unreliable more than
a year after the invasion. In the hot summer of 2004, electricity was
only available intermittently in most areas of the city. An additional
pressing concern was the lack of security. The curfew imposed
immediately after the invasion had been lifted in the winter of 2003,
but the city that had once had a vibrant night life was still
considered too dangerous after dark for many citizens. Those dangers
included kidnapping and the risk of being caught in fighting between
security forces and insurgents.
On 10th April 2007,
the United States military began construction of a three mile (5 km)
long 3.5 metre tall wall around the Sunni district of Baghdad
(Guardian). On 23rd April , the Iraqi Prime Minister, Nouri Maliki,
called for construction to be halted on the wall (Guardian)
(BBC).
The on-going sectarian violence had, by the
beginning of summer 2007, cantoned the city of Baghdad into distinct
and hostile zones: a larger Shia city (nearly all of the city east of
the Tigris, with the exception of Adhamiya and the Rashid districts),
and a smaller Sunni city, west of the Tigris (with the exception of
Kadhimiyya and southwestern districts).
Geography and
climate
The city is located on a vast
plain bisected by the Tigris River. The Tigris splits Baghdad in half,
with the Eastern half being called 'Risafa' and the Western half known
as 'Karkh'. The land on which the city is built is almost entirely flat
and low-lying, being of alluvial origin due to the periodic large
floods which have occurred on the river.
Baghdad is,
in terms of maximum temperatures, one of the hottest cities in the
world. In the summer from June to August, the average maximum is as
high as 44 °C (111 °F) accompanied by blazing sunshine: rainfall is
almost completely unknown at this time of year. Temperatures exceeding
50 °C (122 °F) in the shade are by no means unheard of, and even at
night temperatures in summer are seldom below 24 °C (75 °F) Though the
humidity is very low (usually under 10%) due to Baghdad's distance from
the marshy Persian Gulf, dust storms from the deserts to the west are a
normal occurrence during the summer.
In the winter,
from December to February, by contrast, Baghdad has maximum
temperatures averaging 15 to 16 °C (59 to 61 °F). Minima can indeed be
very cold: the average January minimum is around 4 °C (39 °F) but
temperatures below 0 °C (32 °F) are not uncommon during this
season.
Annual rainfall, almost entirely confined to
the period from November to March, averages around 140 millimetres (5.5
in), but has been as high as 575 millimetres (23 in) and as low as 23
millimetres (~1 in).
Reconstruction efforts
Most
Reconstruction of Iraq efforts have been devoted to the restoration and
repair of badly damaged infrastructure. More visible efforts at
reconstruction through private development, such as architect and urban
designer Hisham N. Ashkouri's Baghdad Renaissance Plan and Sindbad
Hotel Complex and Conference Center garnered early interest, but remain
undeveloped due to the instability of the
region.
Government
The City of
Baghdad has 89 official neighborhoods within 9 districts. These
official subdivisions of the city served as administrative centers for
the delivery of municipal services but until 2003 had no political
function. Beginning in April 2003, the U.S. controlled Coalition
Provisional Authority (CPA) began the process of creating new functions
for these. The process initially focused on the election of
neighborhood councils in the official neighborhoods, elected by
neighborhood caucuses. CPA convened a series of meetings in each
neighborhood to explain local government, to describe the caucus
election process and to encourage participants to spread the word and
bring friends, relatives and neighbors to subsequent meetings. Each
neighborhood process ultimately ended with a final meeting where
candidates for the new neighborhood councils identified themselves and
asked their neighbors to vote for them. Once all 88 (later increased to
89) neighborhood councils were in place, each neighborhood council
elected representatives from among their members to serve on one of the
city's nine district councils. The number of neighborhood
representatives on a district council is based upon the neighborhood’s
population. The next step was to have each of the nine district
councils elect representatives from their membership to serve on the 37
member Baghdad City Council. This three tier system of local government
connected the people of Baghdad to the central government through their
representatives from the neighborhood, through the district, and up to
the city council.
The same process was used to
provide representative councils for the other communities in Baghdad
Province outside of the City itself. There, local councils were elected
from 20 neighborhoods (Nahia) and these councils elected
representatives from their members to serve on six district councils
(Qada). As within the City, the district councils then elected
representatives from among their members to serve on the 35 member
Baghdad Regional Council.
The final step in the
establishment of the system of local government for Baghdad Province
was the election of the Baghdad Provincial Council. As before, the
representatives to the Provincial Council were elected by their peers
from the lower councils in numbers proportional to the population of
the districts they represent. The 41 member Provincial Council took
office in February, 2004 and served until National elections held in
January 2005, when a new Provincial Council was
elected.
This system of 127 separate councils may
seem overly cumbersome but Baghdad Province is home to approximately
seven million people. At the lowest level, the neighborhood councils,
each council represents an average of 74,000
people.
The
nine District Advisory Councils (DAC) are as
follows.
Culture
Baghdad has always
played an important role in Arab cultural life and has been the home of
noted writers, musicians and visual artists.
The
dialect of Arabic spoken in Baghdad today differs from that of other
large urban centers in Iraq, having features more characteristic of
nomadic Arabic dialects (Verseegh, The Arabic Language). It is possible
that this was caused by the repopulating of the city with rural
residents after the multiple sacks of the late Middle
Ages.
Institutions
Some of the
important cultural institutions in the city
include:
* Iraqi
National Orchestra - Rehearsals and performances were briefly
interrupted during the second Gulf War, but have since returned to
normal.
* National Theatre of
Iraq - The theatre was looted during the 2003 Invasion of Iraq, but
efforts are underway to restore the theatre.
The
live theatre scene received a boost during the 1990s when UN sanctions
limited the import of foreign films. As many as 30 movie theatres were
reported to have been converted to live stages, producing a wide range
of comedies and dramatic productions.
Institutions
offering cultural education in Baghdad include the Academy of Music,
Institute of Fine Arts and the Music and Ballet School. Baghdad is also
home to a number of museums which housed artifacts and relics of
ancient civilizations; many of these were stolen, and the museums
looted, during the widespread chaos immediately after U.S. forces
entered the city.
During the 2003 occupation of
Iraq, AFN Iraq ("Freedom Radio") broadcast news and entertainment
within Baghdad, among other locations. There is also a private radio
station called "Dijlah" (named after the Arabic word for the Tigris
River) that was created in 2004 as Iraq's first independent talk radio
station. Radio Dijlah offices, in the Jamia neighborhood of Baghdad,
have been attacked on several occasions.
Sights and
monuments
Points of interest include
the National Museum of Iraq whose priceless collection of artifacts was
looted during the 2003 invasion the iconic Hands of Victory arches
which have been a contentious issue as to their continued presence
multiple Iraqi parties are in discussions as to whether they should
remain as historical monuments or be dismantled. Thousands of ancient
manuscripts in the National Library were destroyed when the building
burnt down during the 2003 invasion of Iraq The Al Kadhimain Shrines in
the northwest of Baghdad (in Kadhimiya) is one of the most important
Shi'ite religious buildings in Iraq. It was finished in 1515 and the
7th (Musa ibn Jafar al-Kathim) and the 9th Imams (Mohammad al-Jawad)
were buried here. One of the oldest buildings is the 12th century or
13th century Abbasid Palace. The palace is part of the central
historical area of the city and close to other historically important
buildings such as the Saray Building and Al-Mustansiriyah School (From
the Abbasid Period). There are other landmarks in Baghdad, each of them
marks a certain era and has become associated with memorable events or
even just changes that marked the city scape. Here are some of
them:
* Baghdad Tower
(used to be known as Saddam Tower): before its partial destruction due
to the USA bombing of the Ma'amoon Telecommunication Center next to it,
the tower used to be the highest point in the city and from where all
Baghdad can be seen. The construction of the tower marks a period of
the post-Gulf-war of 1991 reconstruction
efforts.
* The Two
Level Bridge in Jadriyah (Jisr Abul Tabqain (the Iraqi common name of
it)): Though the planing for this bridge was put long time ago and even
before Saddam's regime take over (reference), the bridge was never
built back then. As part of the reconstruction efforts to make Baghdad
even better than before 1991 war and the USA air force destructive
attacks, the long planned bridge was executed. It connects Al-Doura
area (which is very large) with a direct path to the rest of the
Baghdad and complements the 14th of July Bridge. The structure of the
bridge is rather bulky and not much engineering had been put to it, but
it functions for its
purpose.
* Al-Zawra'a
Park in Al-Mansour Area and almost in a central location of
Baghdad.
* Al-Shaheed
Monument: The monument to the Iraqi soldiers killed in the Iran-Iraq
war, located on the east bank of the Tigris near Sadr
City.
* In Baghdad is
a wide road built in Saddam's time as a parade route, and across it is
the Hands of Victory, which is a pair of enormous crossed swords cast
from weapons of soldiers who died in the Iran-Iraq War under Saddam's
command.
Baghdad Zoo
Baghdad Zoo was
the biggest zoo in the Middle East; however, by 8 days after the 2003
invasion, out of 650 to 700 animals in the Baghdad Zoo only 35 survived
owing to bombing of the zoo, looting of the animals for food, and
starvation of the caged animals without food and water. The animals
that survived were some of the larger animals, including bears, lions
and tigers. In the chaos of the war, the South African, Lawrence
Anthony with some of the zoo keepers looked after the animals, and fed
the carnivores by buying donkeys. Eventually, Bremer supported the zoo
and American engineers helped to reopen the
zoo.
Sport
Baghdad is home to the
most successful football teams in Iraq, the biggest being Al Quwa Al
Jawiya (Airforce club), Al Zawra, Al Shurta (Police) and Al Talaba
(Students). The largest stadium in Baghdad is Al Shaab Stadium which
was opened in 1966. Another, much larger stadium, is still in the
opening stages of construction.
The city has also
had a strong tradition of horse racing ever since World War I, known to
Baghdadis simply as 'Races'. There are reports of pressures by
Islamists to stop this tradition due to the associated
gambling
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